Anyone who has ever stopped into a Virginia winery likely knows about a certain famous Virginian's near obsession with wine. While most know Thomas Jefferson as the author of the Declaration of Independence whose monument has a primo view of the cherry blossoms, wine lovers remember him as one of their own.
From his own Quixotic attempt to grow wines that would rival those of Bordeaux in his native Virginia to his passion for sharing and drinking those same French wines, Thomas Jefferson was a passionate wine drinker.
When a bottle of Chateau Lafite that supposedly belonged to Jefferson came up for auction, it became the most expensive bottle of wine ever sold. From there, the story told in The Billionaire's Vinegar by Benjamin Wallace unfolds - opening up a world of wine writers, critics, auctioneers, winery owners, con men and James Bond super-villain style wealthy eccentrics who buy, sell and drink rare wines with other wine writers, critics, auctioneers, winery owners, con men and James Bond super-villain style wealthy eccentrics.
The book tells the story of this world in a gripping and captivating way, all the while offering more clues for the reader as to whether or not the bottle of Jefferson's authentic or not. I don't want to give too much away, because I urge you to read the book. Failing that, I urge you to see the movie starring Brad Pitt once it is released.
Through it all, the reader learns more about this small universe of highly-exclusive, super rare wine world where reputations are made and destroyed on the ability to provide the rarest wine possible, regardless of what it tastes like. The story weaves in Jefferson's own love of wine - all the while giving readers a glimpse into the types of people who would pay $156,450 for a bottle of wine and how, after paying that much, would have a vested interest in assuring that the bottle was authentic.
As a wine lover, I enjoyed reading the book as much for the supporting role Jefferson plays in the narrative as well as how the case of the Jefferson wines twists and turns. I was also saddened by the type of one-upmanship that the highly-exclusive wine drinkers demonstrated. For me, looking for the oldest and rarest wine would take away from the enjoyment of actually drinking the wine.
With spring and summer upon us, The Billionaire's Vinegar is a great book to read along with a glass of wine, giving a hat tip to Thomas Jefferson and letting the uber-wealthy enjoy wine that is overpriced and way past its prime.
Wednesday, May 8, 2013
Wednesday, April 3, 2013
Of WIne and Baseball
The baseball season is finally upon us meaning that spring has arrived - even with the DC area forecasting mornings in the 20s and 30s - and I can shift from trying to convince people that drinking wine is appropriate while watching football to trying to convince people that drinking wine is appropriate while watching baseball. As a chronic Cubs fan, anything other than Anheuser Busch products is actually acceptable during baseball games, but I digress.
In looking towards this season - another long slog for the Cubs and one of exceedingly high expectations for my adopted team, the Nats - I got to thinking that the wine industry in Virginia is much like baseball in general and the Cubs in particular.
Stay with me now...
Generally, baseball, like winemaking, has certain benchmarks throughout the year. With the former, there is the winter hot stove trades, pitchers and catchers reporting to Spring Training, the start of Spring Training games where the quality of the team is assessed and then, ultimately, Opening Day when all of the past months' hard work, determination and prognostications have to start playing out for a demanding audience.
With winemaking, there is bud-break leading to the development of the grapes leading to harvest leading to crush leading to the wine actually being made and then, ultimately, to the wine being released hen all of the past months' hard work, determination and prognostications have to start playing out for a demanding audience.
The Virginia wine industry is much more like the Cubs in particular. Both had brushes of success early on before a rapid descent into a long-lasting spiral of failure, frustration and futility despite the talent surrounding both. In the Cubs' case, how can you not win a World Series with Greg Maddox, Andre Dawson, Ryne Sandberg and Mark Grace in 1989 or with Ernie Banks, Billy Williams, Ron Santo and Fergie Jenkins in 1969? For Virginia wine, how could it not be a success when you have Thomas Jefferson - the polymath Renaissance Man who wrote the Declaration of Independence - as your champion?
In both instances, the obstacles for success were too great, even for the talent and effort both the Cubs and Virginia wine put forth throughout the centuries.
With a new season under way, the Cubs, as well as a team made up of Virginia winemakers, stand about the same chance of winning the World Series this year. That said, the great thing about baseball, and wine, is that there is always that hope for a better year, a better outcome and continued success.
For the Cubs, that is still a few years off. For Virginia wine, all those years and centuries of Thomas Jefferson and his supporters imploring people to "wait 'till next year" have started to pay off in Virginia - and the wine press, wine-drinking public and the industry as a whole are all starting to take notice.
For the Cubs, there's still always next year, though I will celebrate their perfect 1-0 record while it lasts.
Play ball!
In looking towards this season - another long slog for the Cubs and one of exceedingly high expectations for my adopted team, the Nats - I got to thinking that the wine industry in Virginia is much like baseball in general and the Cubs in particular.
Stay with me now...
Generally, baseball, like winemaking, has certain benchmarks throughout the year. With the former, there is the winter hot stove trades, pitchers and catchers reporting to Spring Training, the start of Spring Training games where the quality of the team is assessed and then, ultimately, Opening Day when all of the past months' hard work, determination and prognostications have to start playing out for a demanding audience.
With winemaking, there is bud-break leading to the development of the grapes leading to harvest leading to crush leading to the wine actually being made and then, ultimately, to the wine being released hen all of the past months' hard work, determination and prognostications have to start playing out for a demanding audience.
The Virginia wine industry is much more like the Cubs in particular. Both had brushes of success early on before a rapid descent into a long-lasting spiral of failure, frustration and futility despite the talent surrounding both. In the Cubs' case, how can you not win a World Series with Greg Maddox, Andre Dawson, Ryne Sandberg and Mark Grace in 1989 or with Ernie Banks, Billy Williams, Ron Santo and Fergie Jenkins in 1969? For Virginia wine, how could it not be a success when you have Thomas Jefferson - the polymath Renaissance Man who wrote the Declaration of Independence - as your champion?
In both instances, the obstacles for success were too great, even for the talent and effort both the Cubs and Virginia wine put forth throughout the centuries.
With a new season under way, the Cubs, as well as a team made up of Virginia winemakers, stand about the same chance of winning the World Series this year. That said, the great thing about baseball, and wine, is that there is always that hope for a better year, a better outcome and continued success.
For the Cubs, that is still a few years off. For Virginia wine, all those years and centuries of Thomas Jefferson and his supporters imploring people to "wait 'till next year" have started to pay off in Virginia - and the wine press, wine-drinking public and the industry as a whole are all starting to take notice.
For the Cubs, there's still always next year, though I will celebrate their perfect 1-0 record while it lasts.
Play ball!
Thursday, March 28, 2013
Spring Wines
If anyone's getting sick of hearing me sing the praises of Virginia Cabernet Franc or Chilean Merlot here, fear not! With spring officially settling into the DC area - and the weather not that far behind - the bigger reds will stay on the rack in the coming months as the lighter reds, whites and roses start to feature more prominently into regular rotation.
For reds, that means this in Pinot Noir's seasonal heyday. Lighter-bodied, with loads of fruit and - with the best from Burgundy and Oregon - spice, earth and complexity that proves that a wine doesn't need to be a big, heavy wine to have a lot going on in terms of what you can taste and discover.
That last sentence was veering extremely close to wine blogger snobbery and pretentiousness, so I apologize and will strive to do better when discussing the whites - especially because there are so many that are approachable, interesting and affordable.
While the Virginia Cabernet Francs and Petite Verdots are being put away for the warmer months, Virginia is no slouch in the white category either. Viognier, in particular, is a great choice, and one that I anticipate enjoying quite a bit of during the spring and summer. Pear, apricot and a little honeysuckle give these wines a lot of fruit while balancing it out with slate on the finish gives Virginia Viognier is why these wines continue to grow in popularity. According to Jordan Harris of Tarara, who makes a great Viognier in his own right, these wines don't show well during wine competitions, but that should take absolutely nothing away from what these wines can offer.
When it comes to pink wine, Rose d'Anjou is a solid go-to. Made predominantly or entirely from Cabernet Franc grapes and coming out of The Loire Valley, these wines - with their abundance of strawberries and raspberries, well-balanced structure and dry, refreshing finish - these wines are great any time during the warmer months and are version utile enough to pair with anything from barbecue ribs to charcuterie.
If you need good come backs when people make fun of you for drinking pink wine with your ribs, check back. That may well be a future post.
Finally, one should not ignore sparkling wines. Cavas from Spain are great, inexpensive sparkling wines that can be opened any time and enjoyed by a diverse crowd. Once you get out of the CVS brands of cava, there are some great options for under $10 maki them some of the best values in the wine world these days.
Whatever you choose to drink during the warmer months, enjoy it, and if you so dare, try to be a wine evangelist for all the beer drinkers.
For reds, that means this in Pinot Noir's seasonal heyday. Lighter-bodied, with loads of fruit and - with the best from Burgundy and Oregon - spice, earth and complexity that proves that a wine doesn't need to be a big, heavy wine to have a lot going on in terms of what you can taste and discover.
That last sentence was veering extremely close to wine blogger snobbery and pretentiousness, so I apologize and will strive to do better when discussing the whites - especially because there are so many that are approachable, interesting and affordable.
While the Virginia Cabernet Francs and Petite Verdots are being put away for the warmer months, Virginia is no slouch in the white category either. Viognier, in particular, is a great choice, and one that I anticipate enjoying quite a bit of during the spring and summer. Pear, apricot and a little honeysuckle give these wines a lot of fruit while balancing it out with slate on the finish gives Virginia Viognier is why these wines continue to grow in popularity. According to Jordan Harris of Tarara, who makes a great Viognier in his own right, these wines don't show well during wine competitions, but that should take absolutely nothing away from what these wines can offer.
When it comes to pink wine, Rose d'Anjou is a solid go-to. Made predominantly or entirely from Cabernet Franc grapes and coming out of The Loire Valley, these wines - with their abundance of strawberries and raspberries, well-balanced structure and dry, refreshing finish - these wines are great any time during the warmer months and are version utile enough to pair with anything from barbecue ribs to charcuterie.
If you need good come backs when people make fun of you for drinking pink wine with your ribs, check back. That may well be a future post.
Finally, one should not ignore sparkling wines. Cavas from Spain are great, inexpensive sparkling wines that can be opened any time and enjoyed by a diverse crowd. Once you get out of the CVS brands of cava, there are some great options for under $10 maki them some of the best values in the wine world these days.
Whatever you choose to drink during the warmer months, enjoy it, and if you so dare, try to be a wine evangelist for all the beer drinkers.
Sunday, February 24, 2013
Governor's Cup Winners Announced
Earlier in the week, the Governor's Cup winners were awarded to to Virginia's outstanding wines. Governor McDonnell bestowed the top honor, again, on Barboursville's Octagon. Octagon continues its march as Virginia's most recognized and awarded wine, and Barboursville continues to follow the Robert Mondavi model of winemaking and education - serving as an ambassador for the Virginia wine industry as a whole while also improving their own reputation.
While I have been critical of some aspects of Barboursville's approach and philosophy in the past, Octagon deserves the honor it has just received and any and all accolades in its future. The entire team at Barboursville strives to get Virginia wine a bit more respect, and who can argue with that?
Rather than try to say what has already been said about this year's Governor's Cup competition and winners, I encourage you to check out what Drink What You Like has said about it - particularly the lack of Viogniers included in this year's Gold Metal winners.
http://drinkwhatyoulike.wordpress.com/2013/02/23/the-virginia-governors-cup-its-all-about-red-blends-for-now/
It's also worth reading Jordan Harris' comments for an insider's perspective on the recent lack of love for Virginia Viognier.
While I have been critical of some aspects of Barboursville's approach and philosophy in the past, Octagon deserves the honor it has just received and any and all accolades in its future. The entire team at Barboursville strives to get Virginia wine a bit more respect, and who can argue with that?
Rather than try to say what has already been said about this year's Governor's Cup competition and winners, I encourage you to check out what Drink What You Like has said about it - particularly the lack of Viogniers included in this year's Gold Metal winners.
http://drinkwhatyoulike.wordpress.com/2013/02/23/the-virginia-governors-cup-its-all-about-red-blends-for-now/
It's also worth reading Jordan Harris' comments for an insider's perspective on the recent lack of love for Virginia Viognier.
Friday, February 22, 2013
What a 90-Point Virginia Wine Tastes Like
One of the Virginia wines that recently received 90 points from Wine Enthusiast was the Tarara 2010 Cabernet Franc. WIth so much of the wine press focused on the wineries of the Charlottesville area, I was glad to see Linden and Tarara - both Northern Virginia wineries - do so well in the recent issue of the Enthusiast.
So what does a 90 point wine produced less than two hours from Washington, DC taste like? In the case of Tarara's 2010 Cabernet Franc, it tastes like a big wine, finishes like a big wine and makes no apologies about being a big wine.
I first noticed that the color was almost exactly the same as the ruby sacrificial ring in the movie HELP! Am I using this post to reiterate my not-quite latent Beatlemania? Perhaps, but there are worse ways to spend an evening watching the Beatles and drinking Virginia wine...
Tarara's Cabernet Franc is a BIG wine in every way - big dried fruit, leather and cedar aromas, big flavors of plumb, currant, tobacco with a peaty bite, big alcohol and a big finish. It continues to be a big wine though it does open up over time.
The wine is so big that I tried it over a couple of days and on the second day, it was still big though the tannins did soften a little. This is certainly a wine that could become friends with your decanter. If you don't have one, open it at the beginning of the night and serve it second if you're entertaining.
More to the point, Cabernet Franc does really well in Virginia and Tarara's demonstrates what the grape can accomplish when given the right soil, climate and winemaker. This wine is a great example of what happens when all three come together, and the national wine press is starting to take notice.
So what does a 90 point wine produced less than two hours from Washington, DC taste like? In the case of Tarara's 2010 Cabernet Franc, it tastes like a big wine, finishes like a big wine and makes no apologies about being a big wine.
I first noticed that the color was almost exactly the same as the ruby sacrificial ring in the movie HELP! Am I using this post to reiterate my not-quite latent Beatlemania? Perhaps, but there are worse ways to spend an evening watching the Beatles and drinking Virginia wine...
Tarara's Cabernet Franc is a BIG wine in every way - big dried fruit, leather and cedar aromas, big flavors of plumb, currant, tobacco with a peaty bite, big alcohol and a big finish. It continues to be a big wine though it does open up over time.
The wine is so big that I tried it over a couple of days and on the second day, it was still big though the tannins did soften a little. This is certainly a wine that could become friends with your decanter. If you don't have one, open it at the beginning of the night and serve it second if you're entertaining.
More to the point, Cabernet Franc does really well in Virginia and Tarara's demonstrates what the grape can accomplish when given the right soil, climate and winemaker. This wine is a great example of what happens when all three come together, and the national wine press is starting to take notice.
Thursday, February 21, 2013
Admit Your Prejudices
Since my last post on Wine Enthusiast's recent issue where several Virginia wines received 90 point ratings, people have been saying things to me like, "Virginia wine? I've never tried it," or "Virginia wine? I hear it's not very good."
Like any sort of prejudice, wine prejudices die hard - making it difficult for up and coming wine regions and varietals get the attention and recognition they deserve. I have often admitted my own prejudices against Italian wine. In fact, I downright don't like it. True, I could say that I have some very good friends who enjoy Italian wines, but that doesn't change the fact that any time an Italian wine is put in front of me, I anticipate the worst - a bland, highly acidic and terribly unbalanced wine that does nothing for me on any level. That, or a Chianti that tastes like Cherry Coke. Neither are my preferred wine choices, and frankly there is too much wine available that I do like to waste my time with the stuff.
I say this because as much as I try to avoid Italian wines, I know better. Italy is one of the largest wine-producing countries in the world, and not all their wines can be the garbage I associate as coming from there. And indeed, the best way for prejudices to die is by routinely breaking down the misconceptions someone has. Truth be told, it's slowly starting to work for me with wines from Italy. I still think it is almost impossible to get a decent bottle of Italian wine for under $15, and I don't think the significantly higher prices for the barolos, amaronies and the like are worth it. Some of the Super Tuscans I have tried recently are starting to make me change my mind, however. So perhaps I'm not a regional wine snob after all and am rather a varietal wine snob. At least I have admitted the problem and now the healing can begin...
More to the point, given my own reservations about Italian wine, I sympathize with people who feel the same way about Virginia wine. One bad experience - or one mediocre wine - can turn people off and cloud their judgement for years to come. So when I hear people talk about the benefits and merits of Italian wine, I remain weary - even though I have had some good Italian wines and remain open to alleviating my discriminatory mindset.
With Virginia wine, people's minds are also slow to change. I hope that people will try more Virginia wine, understand that the quality continues to improve, and recognize that the major publications are starting to take note as well.
If people will accept the general idea that Virginia wine is worth trying and try some, I will begrudgingly continue to educate myself about Italian wine.
Like any sort of prejudice, wine prejudices die hard - making it difficult for up and coming wine regions and varietals get the attention and recognition they deserve. I have often admitted my own prejudices against Italian wine. In fact, I downright don't like it. True, I could say that I have some very good friends who enjoy Italian wines, but that doesn't change the fact that any time an Italian wine is put in front of me, I anticipate the worst - a bland, highly acidic and terribly unbalanced wine that does nothing for me on any level. That, or a Chianti that tastes like Cherry Coke. Neither are my preferred wine choices, and frankly there is too much wine available that I do like to waste my time with the stuff.
I say this because as much as I try to avoid Italian wines, I know better. Italy is one of the largest wine-producing countries in the world, and not all their wines can be the garbage I associate as coming from there. And indeed, the best way for prejudices to die is by routinely breaking down the misconceptions someone has. Truth be told, it's slowly starting to work for me with wines from Italy. I still think it is almost impossible to get a decent bottle of Italian wine for under $15, and I don't think the significantly higher prices for the barolos, amaronies and the like are worth it. Some of the Super Tuscans I have tried recently are starting to make me change my mind, however. So perhaps I'm not a regional wine snob after all and am rather a varietal wine snob. At least I have admitted the problem and now the healing can begin...
More to the point, given my own reservations about Italian wine, I sympathize with people who feel the same way about Virginia wine. One bad experience - or one mediocre wine - can turn people off and cloud their judgement for years to come. So when I hear people talk about the benefits and merits of Italian wine, I remain weary - even though I have had some good Italian wines and remain open to alleviating my discriminatory mindset.
With Virginia wine, people's minds are also slow to change. I hope that people will try more Virginia wine, understand that the quality continues to improve, and recognize that the major publications are starting to take note as well.
If people will accept the general idea that Virginia wine is worth trying and try some, I will begrudgingly continue to educate myself about Italian wine.
Saturday, February 16, 2013
Enthusiastic About Virginia WIne
If you haven't seen the March issue of Wine Enthusiast, it is worth the $5.99 newsstand investment. Not only does it offer their monthly buying guide, but they have a cover story on the rise of Virginia wine that highlights the different wine-growing regions, AVAs and varietals that do best in the Old Dominion.
Unfortunately the Blogger app for iPad does not allow hyperlinks, so here's the link in long-form: http://www.winemag.com/Wine-Enthusiast-Magazine/March-2013/The-Old-Dominions-Upswing/
As for Wine Enthusiast's March Buyer's Guide, there is a noticeable increase in the number of Virginia wines in the guide. Six Virginia wines received a 90 point rating:
1. Linden 2009 Hardscrabble Chardonnay
2. Tarara 2010 Cabernet Franc
3. Barboursville 2009 Octagon
4. Linden 2008 Hardscrabble Red
5. Tarara 2010 Tranquility Cabernet Sauvignon-Tannat
6. Linden 2008 Late Harvest Petit Manseng
Many more Virginia wines also received scores in the high-80's.
What is interesting about the 90 point Virginia wines is that five of the six are from two wineries in Northern Virginia - Linden and Tarara.
This speaks volumes not only about what other wine bloggers and myself have been saying about the potential for wine in Northern Virginia for some time now, but also to the skills and winemaking talent that the region is attracting - with Jim Law and Linden and Jordan Harris at Tarara fast becoming part of the region's winemaking brain trust.
I was also shocked to see that there wasn't a singe Viognier that received a 90 point score. Viognier grows so well in the state - in fact a lot of wineries have hitched their success with white wines to that varietal - yet it hasn't done as well as Chardonnay. At least by the palates of the Wine Enthusiast editors.
Still, having such a prominent story on Virginia wine, and seeing an increase in the number of Virginia wines in their Buying Guide is a good thing for the Virginia wine industry as a whole. I get the feeling that Virginia wine is the little secret that is about to become known to a lot more people.
Unfortunately the Blogger app for iPad does not allow hyperlinks, so here's the link in long-form: http://www.winemag.com/Wine-Enthusiast-Magazine/March-2013/The-Old-Dominions-Upswing/
As for Wine Enthusiast's March Buyer's Guide, there is a noticeable increase in the number of Virginia wines in the guide. Six Virginia wines received a 90 point rating:
1. Linden 2009 Hardscrabble Chardonnay
2. Tarara 2010 Cabernet Franc
3. Barboursville 2009 Octagon
4. Linden 2008 Hardscrabble Red
5. Tarara 2010 Tranquility Cabernet Sauvignon-Tannat
6. Linden 2008 Late Harvest Petit Manseng
Many more Virginia wines also received scores in the high-80's.
What is interesting about the 90 point Virginia wines is that five of the six are from two wineries in Northern Virginia - Linden and Tarara.
This speaks volumes not only about what other wine bloggers and myself have been saying about the potential for wine in Northern Virginia for some time now, but also to the skills and winemaking talent that the region is attracting - with Jim Law and Linden and Jordan Harris at Tarara fast becoming part of the region's winemaking brain trust.
I was also shocked to see that there wasn't a singe Viognier that received a 90 point score. Viognier grows so well in the state - in fact a lot of wineries have hitched their success with white wines to that varietal - yet it hasn't done as well as Chardonnay. At least by the palates of the Wine Enthusiast editors.
Still, having such a prominent story on Virginia wine, and seeing an increase in the number of Virginia wines in their Buying Guide is a good thing for the Virginia wine industry as a whole. I get the feeling that Virginia wine is the little secret that is about to become known to a lot more people.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
